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Seafood by the Seashore

Sample the savory treasures of the Atlantic Ocean with this must-read guide for eating in the Bay State.

 

By Brion O'Connor

Seafood is synonymous with the Bay State. From the fishing villages of Gloucester on Cape Ann to the tip of Cape Cod and the Islands, eastern Massachusetts is blessed with an abundance of top-notch coastal restaurants that rival the riches of the Atlantic's famous Outer Banks. Here are 10 (in no particular order) to get you started on your culinary adventures.

Plus:

Cool places for hot drinks

Delicious desserts


1. Glenn's Restaurant and Cool Bar, Newburyport

Some longtime fans of Chef Glenn Mayers may suffer pangs of nostalgia for the original Glenn's Galley, which opened in a little riverside shack at Yankee Marine in Newburyport in 1986. But success has its price, and Mayers needed more room. In 1991, he moved his establishment to the distinctive red-brick environs of downtown Newburyport, installed an open kitchen, and launched Glenn's Restaurant and Cool Bar. The Far East Sesame Crusted Sushi Yellowfin Tuna with a blackberry Cabernet ginger sauce and egg noodle tat soi stack served with crispy dumplings is Mayers' signature dish. 978.465.3811; www.glennsrestaurant.com

2. Woodman's, Essex
Woodman's is touted as the inventor of the fried clam, and the restaurant has remained true to that succulent shellfish for more than 85 years. In addition to serving thousands of customers annually in its restaurant at the east end of "restaurant alley" on the Main Street causeway that bisects the town and the Essex River, Woodman's caters clambakes and barbecues. "It's eat-in-the-rough," says Doug Woodman, a Wodman's vice president. "You can place your order, find a picnic table and within 10 minutes, you've got your food." Plates of fried clams, scallops, shrimp or fish, smothered with french fries and onion rings, are huge. The steamers and boiled lobster are also a hit. Woodman's doesn't accept credit cards. 978.768.6057, 800.649.1773; www.woodmans.com

3. FINZ, Salem
Not far from Woodman's you can sample the trendy menu of FINZ. The decor reflects the restaurant's oh-so-hip mantra, with lots of glass and copper and an open floor plan, raised ceilings, smooth leather couches and picturesque views of Salem Harbor. The two-and-a-half-year-old restaurant on Pickering Wharf offers a variety of dishes, from Wasabi Stoli Oysters to Buffalo Calamari on the appetizer menu and Potato and Leek Encrusted Salmon to Sesame Encrusted Yellowfin Tuna with Asian noodles and vegetables for entrées. 978.744.8485; www.hipfinz.com

4. No-Name Restaurant, Boston
If you're looking for frills, look elsewhere. After all, a restaurant that doesn't bother with a clever name (or any name, for that matter) isn't trying to impress you with anything other than the food on the table. The signature seafood chowder is always a hit, as are the sautˇed lobster in a wine and butter sauce and the broiled seafood plate with enough swordfish, scrod, scallops shrimp and salmon to feed a small fleet. And the views of Boston Harbor are priceless. Be sure to bring cash or a check, as credit cards aren't accepted. 617.423.2705

5. Skipjack's Seafood Emporium, Boston
Named after a feisty tuna that plies the salty waters off the West Coast, Skipjack's Seafood Emporium was at the forefront of a design 20 years ago to bring same-day fresh Pacific Ocean seafood to the Northeast. Skipjack's in Boston's Back Bay was opened in 1988, buoyed by the success of the original restaurant in Brookline. The worldly menu includes mahi mahi and moonfish from Hawaii, Arctic char from Iceland, red snapper from the Gulf of Florida, orange roughy from Australia, wild Alaskan salmon, ginger sea bass from Chile and blackened tuna sashimi, in addition to New England staples, such as lobster, shrimp, scallops and scrod. 617.536.3500; www.skipjacks.com

6. The Daily Catch, Boston
The emphasis at the original, cozy storefront of the Daily Catch in the made-for-walking North End (there are three newer restaurants, in Brookline, Saugus, and at the Seaport in Boston) hasn't changed in 30 years Ñ it's all about the food. The idea of owners Maria and Paul Freddura was to take a few select Sicilian ingredients and marry them with native seafood and shellfish. Calamari is the house specialty (as the painted squid outside suggests) and comes in a number of preparations. Visitors with more adventurous palates can sample the Lobster Fra Diavolo, Shrimp and Scallop Aglio Olio, Sicilian-style Littlenecks, Monkfish Marsala, or Black Pasta Putanesca. 617.523.8567; www.dailycatch.com

7. Blackfin Chop House and Raw Bar, Hingham
The ultimate in surf 'n' turf can be found just south of Boston, in the well-groomed suburb of Hingham, at Chef Anthony Ambrose's latest venture, the Blackfin Chop House and Raw Bar. Ambrose, who has won enthusiastic reviews for his Ambrosia (soon to be Blackfin as well) in Boston, restored a beautiful sea captain's home that dates to the 1700s to house Blackfin. Not surprisingly, the signature dish of the house is a 20-ounce Blackfin Tuna Collar Baked in Spicy Sweet Soy and Bok Choy. 781.740.4000; www.blackfinchophouse.com

8. Le Grenier, Vineyard Haven
Rest assured, when you dine at Le Grenier, the owner will be preparing your meal. For the past 23 years, Chef Jean Dupon has done much of the cooking (his son, Jean-Marc is also a chef there) at this magnificent island escape. Among Dupon's most inspired dishes are his Lobster Normande flambˇ with Calvados, apples finished with cream, Dover Sole Almondine, Swordfish Dieppoise and an elegant Shrimp Pernod. The dress is casual, and patrons can bring their own bottle of wine. 508.693.4906; www.legrenierrestaurant.com

9. The Seagrille Restaurant, Nantucket
For 14 years, Robin and EJ Harvey have consistently offered outstanding fare in a comfortable setting of white and natural wood, earning the couple a well-deserved following among visitors and residents alike. If you're dining light, the Quahog Chowder (which is available via mail order) and the Lobster Bisque (served in a puff pastry bowl peppered with dill) are meals in themselves, as is the impressive raw bar. But those with hearty appetites will cherish the Nantucket Bouillabaisse, brimming with lobster, clams, shrimp, mussels and scallops, and topped off with a generous slice of grilled swordfish. 508.325.5700; www.theseagrille.com

10. The Regatta of Cotuit, Cotuit
The enthusiasm that owner Brantz Bryan brings to his job at the Regatta of Cotuit is reflected in the outstanding fare. The man crackles with energy and so does his menu, which changes almost nightly. Offerings have included Seared Sesame Encrusted George's Bank Scallops with Ginger Wasabi Vinaigrette, Sautˇed Filet of Halibut with Chive Butter Sauce, and the ever-evolving Regatta's Creative Palette of Fish and Shellfish from Cape Cod and Around the World (a diverse collection of seafood and matching sauces). 508.428.5715; www.regattaofcotuit.com

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