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Unique Eats

You are what you eat — which helps explain Bostonians' refined, inventive and eclectic nature (and tastes)

 

By Erin Byers

If we were to personify Boston , she would be educated, influential, philanthropic and approach life enthusiastically. She would carry a refined sense of style and more than a pinch of confidence. At least that's the impression the city likes to give off. Uncover that austere demeanor though, and you're sure to find out that she's also one serious foodie.

Fortunately, the city's restaurants have carved out a dining scene with a uniquely Boston sensibility, one that fits those who eat here.

Plus:

Table for Two -- Cozy dining for couples

Great restaurants for taking in the scene

Food and wine festivals


Despite their puritanical, no-fuss roots, New Englanders relish an adventurous meal. And most of the city's restaurants happily indulge them with dishes — and settings — they won't find anywhere else. What's more, those dishes are being found everywhere from downtown to across the river and inside more than a few of this city's top hotels. So for a taste of Boston 's true personality, grab a table at one of the city's fine establishments.

Parker's Restaurant

Inside the Omni Parker House, the country's oldest continuously operated hotel (it celebrated 150 years in 2005), Parker's Restaurant claims to be the birthplace of the Boston Cream Pie, the Parker House Roll and Boston scrod. History aside, the elegant dining room proves that beauty knows no age. The spacious, distinguished room, which has gotten a few updates along the way, has outlived almost every other restaurant in Boston , which means you might have your meal where John F. Kennedy proposed to Jacqueline Bouvier, and where his forefathers once dined. These days, the fare is likely the same: fit for nobility. The reasonably priced menu boasts hearty New England options like chunky clam chowder and baked stuffed shrimp dressed with a brandy-cream sauce. And for dessert, we recommend the Boston Cream Pie.

Henrietta's Table

With an air of country elegance, Henrietta's Table, inside Harvard Square 's Charles Hotel , has been wooing some of Boston 's most notable diners for years. Governor Mitt Romney and actor Ben Affleck have lauded its breakfast (the whole-wheat hotcakes can jumpstart the frostiest winter morning), while locals appreciate all of chef Peter Davis' honest, New England offerings. He serves tender pork chops alongside heaps of homemade apple sauce and a Yankee pot roast that warms a soul from the inside out. For a taste of home cooking at reasonable prices, this charming spot succeeds every time.

Brasserie Jo

This Parisian-style café, across from the Prudential Tower on Huntington Avenue , features tall gaping windows that overlook the street. While you nibble on chef Jean Joho's casual, moderately priced French fare, the outdoor scene makes for a lively sideshow. The concept is simple: delicious comfort food, like roasted rack of lamb and classic steak frites, served in a modern, high-end setting inside the Colonnade Hotel. Dishes are executed with minimal flair, so the focus is on flavor and impeccable service. No matter which meal you're in for (breakfast, lunch and dinner) Brasserie Jo promises to impress.

Oak Room

The Oak Room's gilded dining room exudes a stately elegance that elevates the standard steak dinner to a truly regal affair — in fact it's one of this town's top-ten steakhouses. The oak-paneled walls and rich, deep red curtains give the room a refined luxury unmatched even among Boston 's fanciest digs. Sink into maroon and green upholstered banquettes under Waterford crystal chandeliers while sipping a champagne cocktail to start. Next, dive into a bowl of sherry-drizzled lobster bisque before tackling a well-portioned, perfectly cooked steak au poivre. The tender meat and exceptional side dishes (such as creamed spinach and mashed potatoes) make for a decadent and unforgettable meal.

No. 9 Park

Barbara Lynch's French and Italian influences shine in No. 9 Park, the first of three restaurants the chef operates. The upscale dining room's neutral backdrop showcases those influences in inspired seasonal dishes. Add a wait staff as well-trained and knowledgeable as the chef herself, and the combination equals an impeccable experience every time. Prune-stuffed gnocchi scattered with chunks of foie gras and a Vin Santo glaze is a signature dish not to be missed. Other highlights include pancetta halibut on a bed of chanterelles and pommes robuchon , and roasted lamb saddle served with a tart moussaka salad. Wine director Cat Silirie cruises the floor most nights, providing help with pairings, answers to questions or a friendly chat.

Meritage

Rarely does one relish waiting for a table, but at Meritage, inside the Boston Harbor Hotel, that wait usually means sipping a glass of wine while gazing at the lights sparkling over the harbor. Most wines on the list are from producers who participate in the annual Boston Wine Festival, a 17-year tradition at the hotel. Chef Daniel Bruce is dedicated to pairing foods with the appropriate wines (and sometimes beer) for well-complimented bites. And now is the time of year to dine here, as Bruce will be highlighting rich, deep flavors in dishes like prosciutto-wrapped venison and wine-braised short ribs. He shows off the simplicity of seafood in grilled Atlantic halibut on a bed of toasted quinoa grains. The well-priced dishes are a good value served in large or small portions, so enjoy that glass of wine at the bar, but be sure to save room for everything else.

Hamersley's Bistro

Owned by chef Gordon Hamers ley and his wife, Fiona, Hamersley's has been a favorite among refined palates since opening 16 years ago. And no matter their age background, or taste, Bostonians love this place. It could be the easy simplicity of preparations like roasted chicken, cooked to just the right tenderness — a dish to be savored after a long day. T here's also the crispy duck confit appetizer served with roasted apples, which makes a solid bar- snack alternative to the pricier dining room menu. Or it could just be the relaxed, neighborly vibe in the dining room, where one can get a glimpse of the chef inside his busy, open kitchen. Whatever the reason, and we think they all apply, this one will remain a favorite for as long as it's open.

Oleana

Chef Ana Sortun blends the Arabic spices and exotic flavors of the Mediterranean with as many locally sourced ingredients as she can get her hands on — and that's a lot, since her husband is a local farmer. Tucked away in Cambridge , Oleana hides a cozy enclave behind its blue and orange facade. A stone hearth oven near the kitchen adds a warm glow and a toasty aroma to the earth-toned dining room, where guests chat over plates piled with ricotta and bread dumplings or Sortun's tantalizing Armenian bean and walnut paté. Order several small plates and a bottle of wine from the extensive list — for less than the over-the-top price tags found downtown. Then top it all off with one of pastry chef Maura Kilpatrick's homemade ice creams.

Dali

Get to the Somerville tapas restaurant Dali early for a spot at one of its coveted tables. Though the bar is a friendly scene where pitchers of sangria are passed around and small plates of Spanish olives are laid out for patrons, the patient crowd awaits a worth while meal. Past the bar, the dining room is a more spacious, dimly lit version of the scene in front. Layered with Spanish tchotchkes and veiled curtains, the room hums with the sound of satisfied diners. Inexpensive small plates of shrimp sizzling in oil and crunchy chicken croquettes appear and disappear from the tables to start, before sturdy bowls of paella — a Spanish rice dish — are left to be savored slowly.

Locke-Ober

Few restaurants could maintain the polished, white-gloved presence as long as this Boston classic has. Perhaps the Locke-Ober pulls it off because of its veteran staff — a few of the employees have been around more than 30 years. The well-known institution still manages to sport an aristocratic air, and the food lives up to the atmosphere and the restaurant's legacy. Chef and co-owner Lydia Shire sees to it that old-school items like clams casino and man's and lady's steaks remain on the menu. And the service reaches a level far beyond what most people have come to expect.

Aujourd'hui

Located in the Four Seasons Boston, adjacent to the Public Garden , Aujourd'hui allows diners a unique peek through the trees of one of Boston 's little green gems. The dining room sits above street level, so the view is serene and unobstructed, and the recently renovated bar is something to see as well. Chef Jerome Legras deftly molds local seasonal ingredients into classically prepared dishes like a Vermont rack of lamb served with a stuffed red pepper and vegetable tagine. Sommelier Ted Davidson's ever-changing wine list and quirky samplings (try the Chateau d'Yquem vertical flight) allow diners to sip new wines, aged wines or old-time favorites.

UpStairs on the Square

A few miles from the hectic rush of downtown Boston , Cambridge 's Harvard Square lures a quieter, more relaxed dining crowd, one that is inevitably drawn to the warmth and kookiness of UpStairs on the Square. Purple walls fall in line with the owners' offbeat personalities and make for a whimsical, edible journey. Eat casually in the first floor's Monday Club Bar, or opt for a fancier feast upstairs in the aptly named Soirée room. In either spot, the menu will entice with dishes like Kobe beef skewered and dressed with cucumber and miso sauce, and grilled locally caught cod and clams. 

RESOURCES

Aquitaine, 569 Tremont St. , Boston ; 617.424.8577; aquitaineboston.com

Aujourd'hui, 200 Boylston St. , Boston ; 617.351.2037; fourseasons.com

Brasserie Jo, 120 Huntington Ave. , Boston ; 617.425.3240; brasseriejo.com

Clio, 370 Massachusetts Ave. , Boston ; 617.536.7200; cliorestaurant.com

Dali, 415 Washington St. , Somerville ; 617.661.3254; dalirestaurant.com

Hamersley's Bistro, 553 Tremont St. , Boston ; 617.423.2700; hamersleysbistro.com

Locke-Ober, 3 Winter Place, Boston ; 617.542.1340; lockeober.com

Meritage, 70 Rowes Wharf, Boston ; 617.439.3995; meritagetherestaurant.com

No. 9 Park, 9 Park St. , Boston ; 617.742.9991; no9park.com

Oak Room, 138 St. James St. , Boston ; 617.267.5300; fairmont.com

Oleana, 134 Hampshire St. , Cambridge ; 617.661.0505; oleanarestaurant.com

Parker's Restaurant , 60 School St. , Boston ; 617.227.8600; omnihotels.com

Top of the Hub, 800 Boylston St. , Boston ; 617.536.1775; selectrestaurants.com/tophub

Turner Fisheries, 10 Huntington Ave. , Boston ; 617.424.7425; turnersboston.com

UpStairs on the Square, 91 Winthrop St. , Cambridge ; 617.864.1933; upstairsonthesquare.com

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